High-profile Lake County winery champions regenerative viticultural practices.
Vintner Clay Shannon began his wine-industry career in the 1980s at the Napa Valley’s Sutter Home Winery, but by the mid-1990s, he had set his sights on Lake County to the north. Over the next 30 years, Shannon amassed 2,000-plus acres, more than 900 of them planted to grapes. Located on a scenic mountain slope on the eastern side of Clear Lake, one of North America’s oldest lakes, the 1,000-acre Home Ranch is the focal point for planet-friendly farming practices. On the lake’s western side in the town of Lakeport, The Shannon Mercantile functions as a wine bar, a gourmet food market, a local gathering space, and a tasting room showcasing several Shannon Family of Wines brands. All told, the winery produces about 300,000 cases annually.
Worm Farm
An October 2025 Lake County visit began at The Mercantile, where Joy Merrilees, VP of operations and business development (and previously the principal winemaker), explained the region’s volcanic legacy and how the high levels of calcium, potassium, and magnesium in Home Ranch’s soils impart a “saline-like, intensely fruity character” to Shannon wines. She also addressed the winery’s commitment to sustainable viticultural practices, among them establishing a worm farm behind The Mercantile. The worms process wastewater, pomace, discarded cardboard, and other compostable materials combined with local biochar. Converting organic waste into nutrient-rich amendments, says Merrilees, improves soil health while reducing reliance on commercial fertilizers.
Wool Mulch
Two thousand or so sheep manage the estate’s cover crop, reducing the need for tractor mowing. An experiment that began in spring 2025 involves using wool as mulch under the vines. The full benefits are yet to be determined, but the wool appears to insulate the vines from the summer heat. When we visited in the fall, the grape harvest was winding down. The leaves on mulch-treated vines were noticeably greener and more vibrant than those on their counterparts a few feet away.
Mother Vine
Home Ranch’s history dates from the late 19th century, when a Croatian family planted grapes here. Several buildings and a well from their era remain. In 2014, vineyard workers discovered a long-unattended Cinsaut vine they were able to revive. Half of the grapes in the Mother Vine Rosé, which debuted in 2023, come from plants propagated from the original.
Bold and Powerful
Home Ranch is within the High Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area), whose reds, says the Lake County Winegrape Commission‘s website, “can be bold and powerful.” No argument here after tastings, two months apart, of reds from Shannon’s Ovis label.
Built to Last
“Project Ovis, Shannon’s “beyond sustainable, beyond organic” regenerative farming initiative, takes its name from the Latin word for “sheep.” That said, there’s nothing sheepish about the top-tier Ovis reds – they’re muscular and built to last.
Dense and Complex Nero
Even at six years, the 2019 Ovis Nero d’Avola (100%), dense and complex with blue and black fruit predominating, was only starting to simmer down. The tannins remained robust, and the ranch’s volcanic soils expressed themselves emphatically. It took an entire day for the wine to fully open up.
Intense Petit Verdot
Even more powerful on the nose than the Nero, the 2021 Ovis Petit Verdot grabbed attention with its grippy tannins, vivid fruit, and intense finish. Given that it was tempered with 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Zinfandel, and 2% Petite Sirah, one can imagine the PV’s intensity on its own.
Demure Sauvignon Blanc
Compared with the reds, the 2022 Ovis Sauvignon Blanc was downright demure. Redolent of nearly ripe guava, green tea, and white jasmine yet not conspicuously tropical, it benefited from aging in mostly neutral (previously used) oak barrels, which softened the texture. It was among the best Sauvignon Blancs I sipped in 2025.
Ye Old Buck Shack
Our Home Ranch tour included a stop at Ye Old Buck Shack. A former skinning shed converted into a whiskey bar, the shack lends its name to an accessible line of wines aged in bourbon barrels. With its faint whiskey notes, the 2023 Ye Old Buck Shack Cabernet Sauvignon (which contains 25% Zinfandel) is ideal for a barbecue, a hoedown, or, as we enjoyed it, with juicy lamb burgers made with Home Ranch meat (available at The Shannon Mercantile).
Why go: Project Ovis wines; varied tasting options; live entertainment and other events.
