Striving for Perfection on Atlas Peak
Halfway up Atlas Peak, surrounded by scrub oaks, chaparral, and manzanitas, Philippe Langner of Hesperian Wines meticulously farms, mostly by hand, his hilly, rock-bestrewn Kitoko Vineyard. Hesperian’s owner, winemaker, and viticulturist, the cosmopolitan Langner reserves the majority of its grapes for his flagship 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Named for the 14-acre vineyard, elevation 1,350–1,450 feet, the collector-worthy wine is, like its creator, lyrical, intellectual, passionate, refined, and resolute.
Born in El Salvador to a German father and French mother, Langner was raised mostly in . . .