Parisian Pop-Up Dinner Series at Jordan Winery

One of Healdsburg’s best wineries exceeds expectations with French-inspired cuisine paired with Russian River Chardonnay and Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Over many years of visiting Jordan Winery, I’ve come to equate the ¾-mile trip up its tree-lined driveway as the overture to an unfailingly memorable experience. By the time the yellow-ochre château comes into view and the show begins, often with a proffered glass of champagne, one already feels transported. But even with high expectations as the default, the winery’s Parisian Pop-Up Dinner Series, whose debut evening concluded with a dramatic sunset, exceeded them.

Winery sunset. — Summer sunset at Jordan Winery.

Squash Fritters and Caviar Purses

Reminiscent of Jordan’s pandemic-era Paris on the Terrace lunches, the debut pop-up dinner, attended by two dozen guests (a sellout), unfolded on the château’s terrace at a pavilion with views of the building and the surrounding grapevines and oaks. The culinary garden lies just below. Before heading to the terrace, we sipped Jordan Cuvée champagne (France’s AR Lenoble makes it for the winery) in the reception courtyard and sampled garden-fresh squash fritters with aioli and crepe-like beggar’s purses filled with crème fraîche and caviar. The two apps’ creamy luxuriance proved a splendid foil for the champagne’s citrus and apple overtones.

Champagne bottle, wine glass, and two appetizers. — Squash fritters, champagne, and caviar-filled beggar’s purses at Jordan Winery pop-up.

Winners Solo and Together

As the sun set west of the pavilion, the rest of the evening played out the same. All the dishes were winners on their own, as were the wines – a 2023 Russian River Valley Chardonnay and 2015 and 2021 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignons – each component elevating the other in sometimes striking ways.

Winery château and pavilion. — Jordan château and terrace pavilion.

Voluptuous Scallops, Feathery Gnocchi, Crispy Confit

The Chardonnay’s minerality complemented the scallop course’s sweet Brentwood corn, translucent lobster sauce, and voluptuous main ingredient; the 2015 Cabernet’s fine tannins and secondary flavors highlighted the rabbit ragout enveloping the feathery Parisian gnocchi; and the 2021, fruit-forward yet soft and pretty after nearly two years of bottle aging (following 14 months in new and used French oak), played well with the notably moist duck confit’s black du Puy lentils, wilted frisée (the latter with a sherry-vinegar gastrique), and thin, crispy skin.

Three courses of a meal. — Scallops with corn and lobster sauce; Parisian gnocchi with rabbit ragout; duck confit with black du Puy lentils, wilted frisée, and shaved truffles.

Three wine labels — Jordan’s Chardonnay grapes come from the Russian River Valley; the fruit for the Cabernets is grown in the Alexander Valley.

Crème Fraîche and Anglaise

Executive chef Jesse Mallgren and his team executed one brilliantly conceived bite after another all evening, including the “butter and bread” course that preceded the duck confit. (As delectable as the warm, fluffy bread was, the butter, fashioned using a crème fraîche starter, was the star.) The final-course clafoutis (a type of French tart) showcased stone fruit grown steps away. As he poured crème Anglaise atop the dessert (because one good crème deserves another?), Mallgren said he added fresh garden berries that had ripened at the last minute. With easy access to the nearly 2-acre garden, the temptation to improvise must be especially intense during summer.

Dessert with crème Anglaise. — French-style tart with crème Anglaise for dessert.

Upcoming Events

A page on the Jordan website has information about upcoming events, including other dinners, along with spring and fall vineyard walks and classes in pizza making and yoga. The yoga sessions take place at the Vista Point pavilion overlooking the 1,200-acre Jordan estate. If Mallgren ever offers lessons in Parisian gnocchi, I’ll be first in line.