Chardonnays prove ageworthy in retrospective Napa Valley wine tasting.
Who says California Chardonnays can’t age? A June 2024 retrospective Chardonnay tasting at Trefethen Family Vineyards proved they can, and with grace. Hosted by Hailey and Lorenzo Trefethen, whose parents, Janet and John, cofounded the Oak Knoll District winery in 1968 (their grandparents, Katie and Gene, purchased the main estate), the tasting showcased wines from 1974 to 2022 (the first vintage Chardonnay vintage was 1973). All came from the same twice-replanted vineyard.
The 1974’s stone-fruit flavors were evident if muted, and the whiff of oxidation added character. The 1978 thrilled with its brightness and distinct strain of what current winemaker Bryan Kays (pic 4, with wife Hailey T.) described as salinity. The 1984 had cork issues, so no comment on that one, but the 1988’s concentrated flavors and minerality charmed me and my fellow tasters. The suppleness of the 1993 made it another favorite.
Hint of Creaminess, Then Course Correction
By 1998, a hint of California creaminess had crept in. (For those interested, the malo was 11% that year, hardly excessive, versus zero in the previous five wines and 0%–4% in the later ones.) The 2007 seemed even rounder and creamier, but firm acidity provided a counterbalance.
“We made a conscious decision to return to our roots” in 2008, said Hailey, namely the French-inspired approach her parents initially embraced. “We’d rather you not taste the winemaking,” added Kays, who’s been with the winery since a 2006 internship. This course correction (including using less oak and picking at reduced ripeness), plus 2008’s quirky weather, resulted in a smaller crop with denser flavors and astounding aromatics. Although the 2007 and 2008 differed significantly in style, both were satisfying wines.
Farming for Freshness
“We’re farming for freshness,” said Lorenzo of recent vintages. This was easily detected in the 2018, striking for its purity of fruit, dialed-in acidity, and elegant mouthfeel. Ditto for the 2022 and bonus-pour 2021 Katie’s Acre Chardonnays. With their bracing acidity, they’ll likely mature well. Great tale about Katie’s Acre on its back label.
Summer 2024 is a fabulous time to visit Trefethen. The gardens are in bloom, and the 1886 Eshcol Winery and Arts & Crafts–style Villa, where many tastings take place, look as spiffed up as ever. Oh yes, wine flights are 50% off – while the offer lasts, two people can visit this Napa Valley gem with a terrific backstory for as little as $45.
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1160 Oak Knoll Ave., Napa 94558
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